The RunOut Podcast
The RunOut Podcast
Oct 17, 2020
RunOut #48: God Save the Climate
1 hr 7 min

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The Nugget Climbing Podcast
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven Dimmitt
EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’
Dru Mack is a professional rock climber who spent his formative years in the Red River Gorge, and is now traveling full time pursuing hard sport climbing. Nat Gustafson sits in on our conversation to talk about hard projecting, tricks for maintaining power and finger strength, an update on “The List”, training recommendations, hype up songs, and Dru’s battle with ‘The Crew’ 5.14c in Rifle. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dru-mack Nuggets: 4:12 – Send Frosties vs. sad Frosties, DQ Blizzards, and steak dinners 6:01 – One “health day” per week, and crunches for beach abs 7:17 – Battling ‘The Crew’ 9:14 – Project climbing vs. mixing it up, and “every project has a different process” 13:01 – ‘The Flame’, and going on bouldering trips to help his sport climbing 16:10 – Balancing performance climbing with Moonboard sessions, bouldering trips, and hangboarding 18:41 – Dru’s bouldering trip to Estes 19:55 – Bouldering sessions in the gym, and Is, Ys, and Ts 21:35 – Dru’s stretching practice 24:15 – The importance of fun 26:28 – My breathing challenge from Ethan Pringle 30:07 – The theme I’ve noticed in top climbers through the podcast 31:28 – Introducing Nat, the prospect of shoulder surgery, and “decisions are always easier when they’re made for you” 34:14 – Question for Nat: What are some of the cultural differences you noticed (related to climbing) between Spain and the US? What can you attribute to higher climbing standards in Spain? 38:28 – The Spanish warmup 39:37 – Lessons from climbing with the Pou brothers 41:15 – Nat’s progression from 12d/13a to 5.14 in 3.5 years in Spain 42:31 – Nat’s challenges with the language barrier in Spain and feeling emotionally blunted 44:01 – “You don’t get over the fears.” 46:11 – Learning from friends 49:15 – Social media and room for mistakes and growth 57:37 – Lee and mentorship 1:03:30 – ‘Middle Child’ 1:06:57 – Being “Lee” for some other kid someday 1:07:59 – Dru’s biggest weaknesses leaving the Red 1:09:45 – Dru’s first trip to Europe, climbing with J-Star, and doing ‘Fisheye’ 1:11:32 – Getting lowered off the end of his rope, and “always getting better.” 1:13:41 – Plans to move to St. George, and what Dru is focusing on to continue getting better 1:15:36 – Dru’s mantras, little victories, and staying positive 1:18:06 – Update on “The List” (from J-Star), and campusing slabs at the VRG 1:22:18 – Stiff shoes and calf raises for kneebars 1:23:48 – Plans to continue “The List”, and balancing volume climbing with projecting 1:28:07 – 5.15? 1:32:51 – Moving to St. George, community, and balancing connection with solo time 1:39:54 – The book ‘Exhalation’ 1:43:03 – Productivity vs. downtime, phones as a tool, and asking ourselves, “do I have the time to be entertained right now?” 1:46:37 – Shoutout to listeners! Thank you so much for your questions, seriously! 1:46:59 – Patron Question: What should I do to prepare for a trip to the Red? (given two to three months to prepare) 1:51:47 – Breaking down the “2x2” and the “3x3” 1:54:16 – Best angles to train on for the Red 1:55:03 – How to progress your training leading up to a trip to the Red 1:58:05 – Short summary of Red training 1:58:26 – Fingers and core, and Dru’s current approach to finger strength 2:01:18 – R&B and hype up music 2:03:16 – “Enjoy every second of it.” 2:05:44 – Gratitude for friends and supportive community 2:06:51 – “Would I be ok trying this route for a month and not doing it..?”, and last-ditch efforts on ‘The Crew’ 2:09:17 – More gratitude, blue-point-thumb-wrestling, and basketball 2:11:50 – Send Frosty and donuts
2 hr 15 min
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Eric J. Hörst
Episode #54: Turning "Impossible" into "I'm Possible"
Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary boundary! Once again this month, I present an episode of Training Cafe, my twice-monthly video Livestream coaching show on YouTube and Facebook live. The main topic delves into pursuing next-level projects...and the importance of challenging your inner fears of failure and criticism, just like pro climbers do. Now is the time to think bigger...develop a system...and execute your plan with uncommon discipline! Podcast Rundown 2:57 - Beginning of TRAINING CAFE. Main topic is "Turning Impossible into I'm Possible!" 3:12 – But first, we sip coffee together! 3:30 – SHOUT OUT to Chuck Odette, age 64, for sending 5.14b last week! #Legend 4:20 – What it takes to climb hard late into life. 5:20 – MAIN TOPIC: Turning Impossible into I’m Possible 6:10 – Setting goals is easy. Developing an effective SYSTEM for progress towards the goal is harder….and maintaining long-term discipline is even harder yet! 6:55 – Examples of IMPOSSIBLE becoming POSSIBLE…big or small, they can be life-changing. 8:45 – Einstein’s quote must be followed by action! 9:50 – Climbing examples of “I’m Possible”! 11:00 – Ignore the skeptics…don’t take on their #Loserthink! 13:20– High achievers don’t spend a lot of time on social media, gossip, or other time-wasting activities. 14:20 – Need to be somewhat of a compulsive planner. 15:00 – Have a vivid picture in mind every day–build a belief in the goal, and action for bias…and a “get shit done” attitude. 18:50 – Breaking into a new grade in climbing…demands a new level of thinking and novel, disciplined action. Learn from greats like Gullich, Ondra, Hill, Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes. 20:20 – Great achievements don’t happen by accident! 22:30 – Final tip for your Fall climbing season…. 23:30 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! 23:40 – Question: Training suggestions for trip to Red River Gorge in December. 26:26 – Question: Can I combine Repeater hangboard training with another exercise like Pull-up training? 29:06 – Question: What is “Aerobic Power”? How to train it? 33:14 - Question: Thoughts on bouldering with weight on as training? 36:09 – Question: How to break a hangboarding finger strength plateau? 38:33 – Question: Can I do shoulder and core training every day? 40:50 – Question: Will taking Beta-Alanine benefit my training and climbing? 43:20 – Question: Can I use the 7/53 maximum strength protocol to train a variety of grip positions? 47:00 – Question: What training advice for a 13-year-old girl wanting to improve to 5.11? 48:09 – Question: How to incorporate technique-training into weekly strength-training schedule? 53:03 – Question: How to deal with naysayers, critics, and trolls? 56:30 – Episode wrap-up. Shout out to the many companies that support what I do: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
59 min
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Neely Quinn
TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach
About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing exponentially over the last 5 years through efficient and specific training. I wanted to have her on the show again to talk about how her coaching has evolved as she has, and how she’s come back strong after difficult injuries. You’ll be hearing more from Alex on TrainingBeta soon, so stay tuned for that. Alex Stiger Interview Details * Difference between her coaching as a 5.13a climber and now as a 5.13d climber * Overcoming big shoulder injury to come back strong * How she improved her climbing so much * More assessments, fewer assumptions in training * How more rest helped her climb harder * Why she changed her core workouts * Training program coming up on TrainingBeta for women * What she focuses on with older climber clients Alex Stiger Interview Links * Instagram: @alex.stiger * Article by Alex: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core * 1st Interview with Alex on the podcast Training Programs for You Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone… * At-Home Training Program * Finger Training Programs * Injury Protocols * All of our training programs Photo Credit Photo of Alex on Homunculous 5.14a in Rifle by Jill Stompel @shmitpiex Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. Transcript Coming soon…
59 min
The Adventure Stache
The Adventure Stache
Payson McElveen
Martha Schoppe: Smokejumper
Martha Schoppe is a smokejumper, one of a select group of firefighters that parachute to the location of the wildfires they’re tasked with controlling. Out of the 400 smokejumpers across the country, only nine are female. Martha joins Payson to talk about the extreme physical and mental demands of her work, much of which takes place before they even reach the fire. From sewing their own gear to jumping from 3,000 feet into perilous terrain to hiking with 140 pound packs in all kinds of weather, smokejumpers have earned their reputation as being one of the most specialized and experienced tiers of firefighters. Martha talks about some of her most uncomfortable landings, why fighting fires in Alaska can sometimes be extremely wet, and the physical stamina required to work for 18 hours at a time on a fire that lasts for weeks. She also talks about some of the common misconceptions about wildfires, and what it was like leading an inmate crew.  In the six months of the year that Martha isn’t smokejumping, she’s pursuing other types of physical extremes. Not only is she a competitive CrossFit athlete, but she also runs 300+ mile ultramarathons (sometimes while pulling a sled in negative degree temperatures), ice climbs, and does Jiu Jitsu. In spite of all of this, however, her greatest claim to fame may be her multiple trophies in arm wrestling. She and Payson talk about all of this and more in this episode of The Adventure Stache.
3 hr 1 min
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