The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven Dimmitt
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Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being.
2M+ downloads.
"One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
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1 day ago
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He’s put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000’ big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Rocky Talkie!
_RockyTalkie.com/Nugget_
_Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houlding
Nuggets:
0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island
0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people
0:13:50 – Leo’s beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads
0:16:01 – Leo’s “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard
0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again
0:27:29 – Leo’s Instagram cover photo
0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid
0:33:39 – Leo’s first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy
0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid
0:38:24 – Being born at the right time
0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite
0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.”
0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids
0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls
1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wild River Range with Llamas and the kids
1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids
1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission
1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.”
1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid
1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids
1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤
1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story
1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo’s thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet?
1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet
1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge
1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter
1:52:03 – Leo’s accident on Cerro Torre
1:56:41 – Leo’s expeditions to Antarctica
2:02:11 – Kite skiing
2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world
2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.”
2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film
2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest
2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima
2:20:31 – More about Leo’s book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids
2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world
2:24:41 – Wrap up
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5 days ago
BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution
An interesting conversation with Ron Kauk. Enjoy :)
Donate to Sacred Rok:
sacredrok.org
Support the Nugget and Sacred Rok:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Ron's Other Episodes:
EP 69: Ron Kauk (May 17, 2021)
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk (Jul 29, 2021)
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May 22, 2023
EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance
Karly Rager is back on the podcast and is joined by Casey Elliott to talk about the factors that affect climbing performance. We’ve got three engineers in one podcast, and we geek out on the data! Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!
_betterhelp.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link for 10% off your first month!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app!_
Check out Green Chef!
_greenchef.com/nugget60_
_Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
_rhinoskinsolutions.com_
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/karly-and-casey
Nuggets:
0:06:18 – Karly’s time in El Salto, Mexico
0:09:39 – Casey joins us from a legit recording studio, his engineering studies, and coaching vs. engineering
0:16:06 – An update from Karly on Project Direct, and how she got connected to Casey
0:19:19 – Decision fatigue, and wearing lots of hats
0:20:42 – Casey’s climbing and coaching background
0:25:51 – Mikey Schaefer calls out Casey, and the connection between dating and projecting routes
0:30:03 – What was the goal of this multi-variate statistical analysis?
0:32:59 – What is a multivariate statistical analysis, and how does it work?
0:40:09 – The 600 people whose data was used in this analysis, and getting away from statements like “I have 5.13 finger strength”
0:49:12 – What % of climbers have climbed 5.13?
0:50:56 – List of the variables used in this analysis
0:53:45 – Casey’s simple model using three variables
0:55:15 – How important is climbing outside vs. max finger strength?
0:56:35 – Why climbing outside ended up being the most heavily weighted variable in the multivariate model
0:59:10 – Higher-end statistics require interpretation
1:00:47 – Check out their blog post and the climbing calculator!
1:02:08 – Do height, weight, wing span, or BMI affect how hard you can climb?
1:07:57 – Thoughts on how age affects how hard you can climb, and playing to your strengths as a short climber
1:09:37 – What the data doesn’t tell us
1:11:06 – The range of climbing abilities in the 600 participants
1:12:36 – How the coefficient for max hangs turned out to be negative, and what that likely means
1:18:08 – What should people spend their time on to get better at climbing?
1:20:59 – How training can lead to expectations, and getting good before you get strong
1:24:38 – Getting creative with skill drills
1:25:34 – Watching climbing videos, and filming your Kilter Board sessions
1:27:49 – Diving deeper into what you should do to climb harder boulders and sport routes
1:32:06 – Looking for low-hanging fruit
1:35:03 – How Karly used the online calculator before her trip to El Salto
1:36:08 – How to use the online climbing calculator, and how to take the assessment
1:39:34 – How many outdoor days does it take to be a master?
1:42:35 – Injury prevention isn’t captured in the model
1:43:41 – What variables would Karly and Casey like to see in their dream multi-variate statistical analysis?
1:46:39 – What is Mikey Schafer up to?
1:48:16 – Skiing this winter, and finishing his masters
1:48:52 – The momentum that comes with doing hard things, and looking at high performers
1:51:56 – Final thoughts and wrap up
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May 18, 2023
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Steve Bechtel is back on the podcast for a deep dive into active recovery. We discuss what the research says about active vs. passive recovery, what methods work best, why it’s better than sitting on the couch on your rest days, and we also tackle the practical side of things and discuss realistic options for active recovery between burns at the crag, how to have active rest days without doing too much, what deload weeks should look like, and common pitfalls to avoid.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:30:02.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Steve’s Other Episodes:
EP 35: Steve Bechtel (Sept 14, 2020)
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel (Jan 21, 2021)
Follow-Up #2: Steve Bechtel (Nov 11, 2021)
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May 15, 2023
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
Scott Johnston is a world-class coach who specializes in mountain endurance sports. This episode is a masterclass in training principles and is packed full of nuggets for climbers, including boulderers. We talked about why it’s a mistake to mimic top athletes, tips for balancing climbing with other sports, capacity vs. utilization, why to back off after a personal best, developing layers of endurance, the flaw with HRV, how to test your recovery before training, how to fail successfully, the future of alpinism and mountain running, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
Check out Rocky Talkie!
_RockyTalkie.com/Nugget_
_Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!_
Check out Tindeq!
_tindeq.com_
_Use code “NUGGET” for $10 off!_
_I recommend the Progressor 150 for finger training and testing._
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/scott-johnston
Nuggets:
0:04:56 – Inventing telescopes, and refurbishing European sports cars
0:11:25 – Being a cross-country ski racer, climbing with Steve House, and getting into coaching
0:13:22 – Why Scott and Steve decided to write Training for the New Alpinism
0:15:30 – Partnering with Kilian Journett on a second book Training for the Uphill Athlete
0:19:00 – The mistake of trying to mimic people like Killian Journett or Adam Ondra
0:23:05 – Sound bites, the dumbing down of our attention spans, and applying traditional training methods to unconventional sports
0:25:09 – Who is the Uphill Athlete book for?
0:27:56 – Being a general outdoor athlete and a climber
0:28:54 – Patron question from Alex: Tips for training for bouldering and sport climbing during ski season and vice versa?
0:34:42 – Why more training isn’t always better
0:37:39 – Building capacity, and why you rarely perform well while you’re training
0:39:19 – Block periodization
0:42:09 – Monitoring your recovery, using a hangboard to check in, and the restorative effect of easy aerobic activity
0:46:59 – Capacity vs. utilization training
0:54:26 – Training vs. randomly exercising
0:57:16 – Fundamental qualities of sports, and building capacity in different qualities
1:03:32 – Putting money in the bank vs. spending it
1:07:18 – Why you should back off after you hit a PR in your training
1:12:24 – Deloads
1:16:40 – Non-linear periodization
1:18:54 – The aerobic system, and the vacuum cleaner analogy
1:25:54 – Developing layers of endurance
1:27:52 – How and why boulderers and sport climbers should train endurance
1:31:56 – More about the layers of endurance
1:38:25 – My upcoming Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel, why training needs to be more specific at higher levels, and how recovery makes you stronger
1:41:33 – How important is active recovery?
1:44:32 – The flaw with HRV for measuring recovery
1:50:20 – Tuning in to your body, and how to test your level of fatigue
1:53:34 – Using the Tindeq to test your finger strength before training (use code NUGGET for $10 off)
1:56:47 – Why monitoring your progress leads to mental toughness
2:03:19 – How to get the experience you need to climb technical mountains and alpine routes
2:06:25 – The Dreaded Water Carries, and improving muscular endurance
2:19:29 – How long and how often should our training blocks be?
2:22:20 – Losing two climbing partners on K2
2:27:33 – How to fail successfully
2:34:09 – Inventing challenges, and the essential parts of being human
2:38:02 – Scott’s current outdoor lifestyle, and trying to slow the decline as aging athletes
2:42:26 – Doing max strength to recover from hard endurance work
2:46:15 – A teaser for how to increase your weighted pull-ups
2:50:29 – Where to find Scott
2:52:33 – What excites Scott the most about the future of alpinism and mountain running
2:56:40 – Understanding training principles, and the key takeaway from this episode
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May 8, 2023
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
Don McGrath is the author of _Vertical Mind_ and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
_rhinoskinsolutions.com_
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/don-mcgrath
Nuggets:
0:03:56 – The love/hate relationship to climbing in Rifle and Smith Rock
0:07:49 – Living in Colorado Springs, spending the winter in the gym, and working with a coach
0:08:52 – The two simple diet changes Don made to lose his “60-year-old belly”
0:10:56 – Increasing his climbing volume, getting on harder routes in the gym, and the accountability of a coach
0:12:31 – Whiskey time, habits, and alcohol substitutes
0:16:16 – Turning 60, being retired, and setting the goal of climbing 5.12+/13- (7c/+) again after a decade
0:18:07 – Don’s coach Kevin Branford
0:20:40 – Don’s introduction to climbing, and how he became interested in writing and mental training
0:27:27 – Shame Theory, and Fear of Failure
0:30:43 – How the mental aspect of training is overlooked, and diving into movement, emotions, and thoughts
0:34:03 – How to tackle fear of falling, scripts, working on one thing at a time, and the arsenal of uneventful falls
0:39:16 – The story of the woman in The Gunks, and understanding irrational fear
0:42:29 – Debunking scripts
0:45:40 – The script that was holding Don back when he was one-hanging routes in Rifle
0:47:49 – Don’s mantra, and “one move at a time”
0:52:20 – Pre-climb ritual
0:56:38 – Don’s first breakthrough with his mental game
0:58:11 – Most common unproductive scripts
1:04:23 – The best piece of onsighting advice I’ve gotten
1:05:25 – Opening and closing your focus
1:08:53 – What musical instruments and karate have to do with climbing
1:10:30 – Warmups as a big missed opportunity
1:13:56 – Cocreative coaching with your climbing partner
1:17:43 – Shoulds elicit a shame response
1:21:02 – Recommendations for couples who are also climbing partners
1:23:25 – The area of mental game that I’ve been focused on, more about scripts, and breaking into new grades
1:29:32 – Patron question from Gromstoph: Do you have any strategies for getting comfortable on a route more quickly?
1:33:05 – “Just go find out.”
1:37:29 – Patron question from Caden: Are there any ways to practice commitment with new moves when doing new climbs?
1:40:37 – Main takeaway about mental training
1:41:24 – How to love your sport as you age, play, and innovate
1:46:24 – Why climbing is unique
1:48:06 – Duct tape and baling wire
1:49:40 – Don’s advice for those of us in our 20s and 30s
1:51:52 – Socio-behavioral changes, and employing winning tactics
1:54:28 – Don’s book The Climb
1:56:38 – What’s the next book?
1:57:15 – Don’s writing practice, and how a book develops a life of its own
1:59:01 – Advice from Les Brown: “Every point should have a story, and every story should have a point.”
2:00:41 – Have fun, enjoy the process, and embrace the suck
2:03:30 – Getting inspiration from watching kids
2:04:53 – Inspiration from good coaches, and the book Running With the Buffalo
2:06:25 – What’s next?
2:07:23 – Wrap up, and how to connect with Don
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May 4, 2023
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
Have you listened to Climbing Gold?! The new season is here! Check out the first episode of the new season, and subscribe to Climbing Gold on your favorite podcast app for more great climbing stories. Enjoy :)
_In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own._
Check out Climbing Gold!
climbinggold.com
Instagram
Listen on Apple Podcasts
Listen on Spotify
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May 1, 2023
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!
The Nugget is on YouTube!
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rocky Talkie!
_RockyTalkie.com/Nugget_
_Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnold
Nuggets:
0:08:25 – Interviews, speech coaches, and TED Talks
0:11:29 – Finding new terrain for this interview
0:12:09 – Alex’s epic solo linkup in Zion
0:15:20 – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again
0:16:12 – Why do these big solo linkups?
0:17:00 – Alex’s epic solo linkup in Red Rock
0:18:58 – Foot pain on big walls and linkups, and vitamin I
0:21:45 – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’
0:24:38 – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed
0:25:33 – Why do some solos get so much attention while others fly under the radar?
0:26:51 – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico, and pitching films
0:29:21 – What are the limits of free soloing?
0:32:35 – It’s getting harder to have quantum leaps
0:34:20 – Feeling content with his Yosemite and soloing accomplishments, and comparing himself to the top sport climbers
0:36:26 – Chris Sharma doing the FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+) in his first few years of climbing, and the role of talent in high-end climbing
0:39:44 – Alex’s sport climbing resume, what it would take for him to climb 5.15a (9a+), and the tension in his climbing
0:42:37 – Dad strength, and having to focus with limited time
0:43:50 – The climbing gyms in Vegas, and dreams of a home wall
0:49:34 – Near misses while soloing
0:55:34 – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain
0:57:46 – Competing with Ethan Pringle as a kid, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story
1:03:16 – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals
1:04:22 – Climbing slowly, and the physiological limits on ‘The Nose’ speed record
1:08:06 – What it took to break ‘The Nose’ speed record, and Alex’s thoughts on breaking it again
1:10:47 – The biggest lessons Alex has learned from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft
1:14:26 – Drawing inspiration from other climbers, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou
1:18:15 – Following the climbing news
1:19:01 – Who Alex is most impressed by in climbing, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)
1:20:35 – The new season of Climbing Gold, and unearthing the great stories of climbing
1:22:13 – Who Alex has been most thrilled to interview
1:23:28 – The time commitment of Climbing Gold, corporate speaking, and interviewing Stone Masters
1:26:24 – Will Climbing Gold ever put out uncut interviews?
1:28:37 – Pooping while free soloing stories
1:34:56 – Shit-putting, and where he stopped to poop on his solo of El Cap
1:36:29 – Filming Free Solo, how the movie far exceeded his hopes and dreams, the warrior spirit, and soloing as modern blood sport
1:38:54 – The commitment to excellence, and his running list of goal routes
1:41:05 – Plans for the PNW, hard routes on Liberty Bell, and having more commitments and time constraints these days
1:43:57 – “More intention never hurt.”
1:44:47 – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”
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Apr 24, 2023
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!
_betterhelp.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link for 10% off your first month!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
_rhinoskinsolutions.com_
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
Check out Green Chef!
_greenchef.com/nugget60_
_Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosi
Nuggets:
0:05:18 – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland
0:07:56 – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for
0:10:53 – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield
0:12:17 – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated
0:15:38 – Mutation continues to go unrepeated again after Will did it
0:17:23 – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)
0:20:07 – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed
0:23:32 – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden
0:25:10 – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move
0:30:16 – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica
0:33:45 – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session
0:36:26 – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden
0:41:12 – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta
0:46:17 – What a full session looked like on the replica, and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder
0:51:28 – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send
0:54:48 – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder
0:57:33 – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move
0:58:53 – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots
1:08:50 – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?
1:12:03 – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed
1:15:35 – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger
1:26:27 – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard
1:30:57 – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?
1:34:21 – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b
1:38:24 – Bigger edge training vs. micros
1:40:52 – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity
1:46:28 – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)
1:49:10 – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur
1:52:21 – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer
1:53:59 – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a
1:55:13 – Being more thoughtful about your climbing
1:57:17 – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden
1:58:22 – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage!
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Apr 20, 2023
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Katie Lamb. We talked about her recent send of Spectre V14 in Bishop CA, breaking down crux moves into multiple pieces, how she trains on a spray wall, her top 5 go-to lifts in the weight room, projecting tricks, dopamine snacks vs. substance, what she learned from Spectre, having the travel bug, goals for 2023, and more!
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:12:49.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Katie’s Original Episode:
EP 145: Katie Lamb
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Apr 17, 2023
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!
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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Li…
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Apr 10, 2023
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Melina Costanza is a competition powerhouse and the 2021 US Boulder National Champion. She opened up recently about her struggles with an eating disorder and decided to step away from competitions. We talked about her foot injury and surgery, why patent law is similar to climbing, how sports glamorize suffering, getting stronger during recovery, how gratitude can impact your training, and fun facts about Melina from ketchup to baby teeth necklaces.
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
_rhinoskinsolutions.com_
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app!_
Check out Rumpl!
_rumpl.com/nugget_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes…
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Apr 7, 2023
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands.
Matt's Website:
mattheyliger.com
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:31:47.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Matt’s Original Episode:
EP 143: Matt Heyliger
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Apr 3, 2023
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more.
Watch This Video!
Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The Guardian
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rumpl!
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Check out Rocky Talkie!
_RockyTalkie.com/Nugget_
_Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry rad…
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Mar 27, 2023
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Fundamentals (Part 6 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I dive into how to structure your climbing year. We talk about the circumstances that led to some of our best years in climbing, the importance of having a plan and taking notes, why focus tends to produce excellence, how to build from one phase to the next, and making sure your training supports your climbing. Happy planning!
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
Tom Randall's Follow-Up:
Follow-Up: Tom Randall
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!
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Check out Crimpd!
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Mar 23, 2023
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Emil Abrahamsson is back on the podcast to talk about sending his first V15. We talked about how gaining 15 lbs (6.5 kg) led to sending his hardest boulder, how and why he overhauled his training, how he’s achieved long-term finger strength gains, sending his most meaningful project with Power of Now V14, my goal to climb my first V13, his advice for me, and much more!
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 2:06:03.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Emil’s Original Episode:
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson (Sept 6, 2021)
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Mar 20, 2023
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
Sam Stroh is caffeinated, psyched, and ready to send everything from double-digit highballs to free routes on El Cap. We talked about his early climbing and onsighting Moonlight Buttress (5.12+), our coffee and chocolate addictions, finding the perfect climbing partner, the biggest lessons from each discipline of climbing, suffering on the side of El Cap, botching it with tactics, and harrowing sends.
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!
_betterhelp.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link for 10% off your first month!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Dona…
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Mar 13, 2023
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out LMNT!
_DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie…
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Mar 6, 2023
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou’s vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Tom’s Other Episodes:
EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)
Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)
Sam’s Other Episodes:
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted…
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Feb 27, 2023
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Fundamentals (Part 4 of 6) — In part 4 of this series, Jesse and I discuss our top tips for how to improve your climbing technique, and share common pitfalls that can prevent progress. These are fundamental tips that you can practice at the climbing gym, the boulders, or the crag. We hope this episode helps you more closely examine your movement so you can level up your climbing!
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out LMNT!
_DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Fr…
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Feb 22, 2023
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tim Emmett is back on the podcast to geek out about his project Era Vella 9a (5.14d). We talked about his Fall 2022 season in Spain, lessons from 80+ days projecting the route, how he changed his diet to feel his healthiest at age 48, discovering his own personal climbing mantra, finding flow state, the value of trying something at your limit, and much more!
Check out Tim's Instagram post about Era Vella
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:24:37.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Tim’s Original Episode:
EP 107: Tim Emmett (Feb 21, 2022)
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Feb 20, 2023
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off y…
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Feb 13, 2023
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
Fundamentals (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3 of this series, Jesse and I discuss tips and pitfalls for going on a sport climbing trip. Whether you are a weekend warrior, planning your first-ever sport climbing trip, or a seasoned veteran, we hope this episode will help you send your dream routes and enjoy your climbing along the way.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out LMNT!
_DrinkLMNT.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link and get a free sample pack with any purchase!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu
Become a Patron:
patreon.…
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Feb 6, 2023
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Caleb Robinson is an ex-competitive soccer player, elite boulderer, route setter, and photographer. He started climbing at age 17 and sent his first V13 in just four years. We talked about the biggest lessons he learned from competitive soccer, how deadlifting fixed his back, a typical week of training, his finger training journey, the power of consistency over time, finding his artistic expression in photography, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Jo…
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Feb 2, 2023
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Aidan Roberts is back on the podcast for a proper geek-out about cutting-edge bouldering! We talked about sending Alphane V17, how he and Ollie tweaked his approach to focus on power over the winter, his plans to try futuristic (V18) projects back in Switzerland, and Aidan answered your questions about his training, finger strength, board climbing, flexibility, nutrition, lifestyle, and more!
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 2:53:31.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Aidan’s Original Episode:
EP 142: Aidan Roberts (Oct 31, 2022)
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Feb 1, 2023
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
The Nugget is now on YouTube! We'll be sharing top clips from the podcast along with never-before-seen content. Subscribe before Feb 28th to enter to win a Training Bundle from Chalk Cartel, Frictitious Climbing, and Rhino Skin Solutions!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
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Jan 30, 2023
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
Fundamentals (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2 of this series, Jesse and I dive deeper into specific tips and pitfalls for going on a bouldering trip. We covered a wide range of topics including training and preparation, crash pad and kit recommendations, how to manage skin and energy, good bouldering ethics, how to boulder in a group, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
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instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
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rhinoskinsolutions.com
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Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Sc…
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Jan 23, 2023
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
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_greenchef.com/nugget60_
_Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athle…
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Jan 19, 2023
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 2:03:36.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Jordan’s Original Episode:
EP 115: Jordan Cannon (April 18, 2022)
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Jan 16, 2023
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse’s Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and…
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Jan 16, 2023
Announcing Fundamentals!
Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!
Listen to Fundamentals episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Jesse's Original Episode:
EP 127: Jesse Firestone
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Jan 9, 2023
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
We are sup…
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Jan 4, 2023
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons!
*The full version is 1:34:15.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Tyler’s Other Episodes:
EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)
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Jan 2, 2023
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way.
Check out _The Climbing Zine_!
climbingzine.com
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and…
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Dec 26, 2022
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more.
_*This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :)_
Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!
kegelsandcoffee.com
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee
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Dec 19, 2022
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
I often get asked, _“what is your favorite interview you’ve ever done?”_ Firstly, I don’t have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!
_*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020._
_Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack’ in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang’s shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing._
Check out Athletic Greens!
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_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 trave…
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Dec 15, 2022
BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film!
Alita Contreras is back on the podcast! We talked about her Fall project in the Red River Gorge, the lessons that routes can teach us, and a film project that she is currently working on with her friend Elisa Varlotta called Guerreras. The film will feature Colombian women and the beautiful local climbing in Colombia.
Support the Guerreras GoFundMe!
http://gofund.me/47f5487d
Follow on Instagram!
@guerreras.film
@alitaclimbing
@elisa_varlotta
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Dec 14, 2022
Announcing Merch!
Merch is here! I am SO excited about how the "hello friends" series turned out. Check out the Nugget shop for t-shirts, hoodies, and hats. All Patrons get free shipping!
Buy Merch!
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Become a Patron and get free shipping!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Dec 12, 2022
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.
Check out So Cards!
_socards.org_
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Micha…
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Dec 5, 2022
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.
Support the Access Fund!
_accessfund.org/donate_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David L…
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Nov 28, 2022
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Amity Warme. We talked about sending The Honeymoon Is Over on the Diamond during a hailstorm, and we covered the highlights and lessons from her spring season in Yosemite.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:25:59.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Amity’s Original Episode:
EP 104: Amity Warme
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Nov 21, 2022
EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement
Katie Lamb is one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her early climbing and falling in love with bouldering, climbing her first V14 and what led to her breakthrough in the last two years, projecting tips, superpowers, lifting weights, balancing training with outdoor climbing, what it will take for her to reach the next level, and working in climate data science.
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun
Become a Patron:
patre…
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Nov 15, 2022
EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating
Marisa Michael is a registered dietitian nutritionist with 20 years of experience who specializes in eating disorders in athletes and climbers. We talked about the characteristics of eating disorders, the line between eating for performance and disordered eating, why losing weight won’t make you climb harder, recommendations for climbers and youth athletes, intuitive eating, Marisa’s sweet tooth, and much more.
Eating Disorders Helpline:
nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helpline
Listen to more top nutrition episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
We are supported…
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Nov 7, 2022
EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story
Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy,…
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Nov 1, 2022
EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style
Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more.
_*He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!_
Listen to more top bouldering episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Frictitious Climbing!
_frictitiousclimbing.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checko…
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Oct 24, 2022
EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking
Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Sh…
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Oct 19, 2022
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance
Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.
Listen to more top episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_…
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Oct 10, 2022
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Frictitious Climbing!
_frictitiousclimbing.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_…
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Oct 3, 2022
EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!
0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:
0:03:00 – Metal Game
0:06:09 – Watching Videos
0:09:55 – Visualization
0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)
0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises
0:28:37 – Getting Creative
0:29:41 – One-Time Co…
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Sep 29, 2022
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:03:39.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Ned’s Original Episode:
EP 113: Ned Feehally
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Sep 26, 2022
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c
Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.
Listen to more top episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
We are supported by t…
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Sep 19, 2022
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Con…
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Sep 12, 2022
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.
Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott D…
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Sep 5, 2022
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success.
Climbers Crag:
climberscrag.com
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Shortform!
shortform.com/nugget
_Use this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.co…
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Aug 31, 2022
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:32:46.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Jonathan’s Other Episodes:
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)
EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)
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Aug 29, 2022
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.
Listen to more top episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Frictitious Climbing!
_frictitiousclimbing.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free…
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Aug 22, 2022
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of _Climb Smarter_. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.
_Climb Smarter:_
Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)
Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe)
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
Check out Shortform!
sho…
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Aug 15, 2022
EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle
Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast _The Struggle Climbing Show_. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast.
Listen to more top episodes!
thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Feals!
_feals.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS…
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Aug 8, 2022
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique
Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of _The Climbing Bible_. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box.
The Climbing Bible:
Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)
Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe)
Check out Frictitious Climbing!
_frictitiousclimbing.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!_
Check out Arc'teryx!
_arcteryx.com_
_Arc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be_
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to…
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Aug 5, 2022
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:04:24.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Matt’s Originial Episode:
EP 39: Matt Fultz
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Aug 1, 2022
EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner
Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable, how to have difficult conversations, common insecurities and fears in relationships, tips for long-distance relationships, vanlife dating tips, and much more.
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig…
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Jul 25, 2022
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenu…
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Jul 21, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining board climbing with weight lifting and hangboarding, when to double down on strength vs. when to mix in endurance training, my plans to try a 5.14 this Fall, and much more!
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:03:36.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Steve’s Other Episodes:
EP 70: Steve Maisch
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the third one, published Apr 21, 2022)
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Jul 18, 2022
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s top 3 tips for climbers at different stages, non-physical factors that affect our performance, tips for flashing hard boulders, training changes after age 30, and much more.
_*If you liked my episodes with__ Emil Abrahamsson __and__ Martin Keller__, don’t skip this one!_
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Feals!
_feals.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lah…
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Jul 14, 2022
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
In this short bonus episode, my friend Michelle LeBlanc joins me on the podcast to talk about Project Pride! Project Pride is an upcoming outdoor bouldering event in Squamish, B.C, and is an opportunity for 2SLGBTQ+ individuals to connect and climb. Join us to learn more and check out the links below to reserve your spot!
Preregister Here!
https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-tickets-352167872587
Gripped Article:
https://gripped.com/profiles/squamish-project-pride-opportunity-for-2slgbtq-individuals-to-connect-build-community-crush-boulders/
Instagram Links:
@project.pride.squamish
@croissant.83
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Jul 11, 2022
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
This is my favorite episode of The American Climbing Project so far, and Devin Dabney graciously offered up the audio from his podcast so I could share it with all of you. Enjoy!
Check out more episodes of ACP!
americanclimbingproject.com
And support Devin on Patreon!
patreon.com/americanclimbingproject
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Jul 11, 2022
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Devin Dabney is a rock climber, routesetter, rapper, music producer, writer, and creator of The American Climbing Project podcast. We talked about using humor to talk about uncomfortable subjects, inviting people into conversations, how climbing saved his life after considering suicide, breaking down barriers to climbing, how competition makes us better, and making a difference in the climbing community.
Support Devin's Podcast!
patreon.com/americanclimbingproject
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott D…
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Jul 7, 2022
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Alita Contreras. We talked about mental training and how Alita trains her mind every day, what it was like working with Lattice Training, exercises and drills for improving foot tension, dealing with frustration during projecting, what it felt like to send Ferrari 5.14a, goals to climb more 5.14s, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:02:56.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Alita's Original Episode:
EP 87: Alita Contreras
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Jul 4, 2022
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
Zofia Reych is a Polish climber and anthropologist and author of _Born to Climb_. We talked about renovating their mid-18th century house in Fontainebleau, researching the book, identifying as non-binary and directing the Women’s Bouldering Festival, what it’s like to be autistic, key chapters in climbing’s history, losing friends in the mountains, and much more.
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Athletic Greens!
_athleticgreens.com/NUGGET_
_Use this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig…
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Jun 27, 2022
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
Karly Rager is a structural engineer turned climbing coach, and the founder of Project Direct Coaching. We talked about Karly’s background and what led her to start her own coaching business, being a female in two male-dominated industries, mental strategies for developing focus and overcoming fear, transitioning between climbing disciplines, using injuries as opportunities, cultivating longevity in our climbing, valuing coaches more highly, and much more.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
_And check out __EP 22 with Justin Brown__ to learn more about how to use Rhino products!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue,…
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Jun 20, 2022
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Magnus Midtbø is a professional climber turned YouTuber from Norway. He has climbed 5.15b (9b), and his YouTube channel recently hit 1M subscribers. We talked about burning out on competitions and starting his YouTube career, the hard work behind success, favorite collaborations, go-to climbing workouts, and takeaways from training with Adam Ondra.
Check out Petzl!
_petzl.com_
_Or find Petzl helmets at your local climbing shop!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenug…
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Jun 16, 2022
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Chad Andrews. We talked about selling his house and living on the road full-time with his wife during covid, the pros and cons of vanlife, being your own boss, and climbing full-time, how to have a healthier relationship with money, investing principles, book recommendations, and health insurance tips for the self-employed.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 2:14:38.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Chad's Other Episodes:
EP 20: Chad Andrews
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt
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Jun 13, 2022
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoulder, elbow, and finger injuries as climbers, warming up your fingers at the crag, what to do to help your body recover on rest days, and much more.
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jared-vagy
Nuggets:
0:05:00 – J-Rock the hip-hop artist
0:09:58…
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Jun 6, 2022
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing.
*I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Free…
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May 30, 2022
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentially a professional climber on the side. We talked about paraclimbing competitions, being diagnosed with Ataxia, how we perceive wheelchairs, empathy in coaching, and much more.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lea-volpe
Nuggets:
0:07:04 – Getting o…
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May 23, 2022
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy, referencing research in climbing, why climbers should think of themselves as athletes, and the most important things we are missing in our physical training.
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carrie-cooper
Nuggets:
0:04:56 – Morning rituals
0:07:10 – Audio setups, and presenting at the Tokyo Olympics
0:13:42…
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May 16, 2022
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
The tables are turned in this episode! Steven Dimmitt joins Chad Andrews from Clipping Chains to talk about leaving his engineering career to start the podcast, building a craft vs. pursuing a passion, reaching more than 1M downloads, monetization, outsourcing things you hate doing, the glorification of van life, and key climbing principles he has learned from hosting The Nugget.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:…
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May 9, 2022
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma’ (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn’t sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone’ project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:21:47.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Joe's Original Episode:
EP 96: Joe Kinder
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May 2, 2022
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
_Use the link above to get a free _year's_ supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Beco…
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Apr 25, 2022
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade. We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent diagnosis of autism spectrum disorder, climbing 1000+ V11s or harder, his analogy of climbing as a book, hardest FAs, trying to climb V16, travel routines, filmmaking, and much more.
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes…
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Apr 23, 2022
Recap: Mar '22
"Recaps" are now available for Patrons!
In this Recap episode, Steven shares a recap of his final weeks in Hueco, and his first two weeks trying a 14a in Utah.
Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more Recap episodes! Plus, it helps out the show!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out the "Announcing Reflections and Recaps" episode to learn more!
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Apr 23, 2022
Reflections: Mina
"Reflections" are now available for Patrons!
In this Reflections episode, Mina talks with Steven about an area of her climbing that she still struggles with, and about building general strength. She also talked about the different versions of ourselves we experience in life and embracing the current version of herself.
Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more Reflections episodes! Plus, it helps out The Nugget and The Curious Climber Podcast!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out the "Announcing Reflections and Recaps" episode to learn more!
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Apr 23, 2022
Announcing "Reflections" and "Recaps"
Announcing more new content for Patrons!
"Reflections" are collaboration episodes with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Hazel Findlay of the Curious Climber Podcast. These are short episodes where one of us shares our thoughts on something we've been thinking about, or are working on in our own climbing or lives.
"Recaps" is a new episode series where I share what I have been up to for the past month, how I have been training, top 3 climbing highlights, what I could have done better, plans for the next month, and more. Think of this as Steven's monthly blog update, but in audio form.
Become a Patron for $10/mo to get access to Reflections and Recaps! Plus, it helps out the show!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Apr 21, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my third Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my 2022 trip to Hueco, combining hangboarding with outdoor climbing, trip highlights, the Hueco Downward Spiral, lessons learned, and what I plan to do differently next year.
*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first and second Follow-Ups with him before this episode.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:41:46.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Steve’s Other Episodes:
EP 70: Steve Maisch
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)
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Apr 18, 2022
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
Jordan Cannon is a professional climber who exploded onto the Yosemite scene in recent years with multiple in-a-day free ascents of El Capitan, and hard big wall linkups. We covered Jordan’s climbing origin story, playing college soccer, seeking adventure in Yosemite, van life tips, big wall pooping stories, free climbing El Cap in a day vs. multiple days, the value of dirtbagging, and much more.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)
climbwell.co/retreat-rifle
_Use discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/epi…
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Apr 11, 2022
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more.
*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Sc…
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Apr 4, 2022
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of_ Beastmaking_. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
_Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)
climbwell.co/retreat-rifle
_Use discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig…
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Mar 29, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:40:26.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Steve’s Original Episode:
EP 68: Steve McClure
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Mar 28, 2022
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
Dr. Favia Dubyk is a pathologist, cancer survivor, Ninja Warrior, cat lover, and badass boulderer. We talked about the connective tissue disorder that led her to specialize in lowball roof climbing, what it was like to go through cancer and chemotherapy, how she became one of the strongest people in the world at pull-ups, learning how to dyno, and her current V13 lowball roof project.
Check out Chalk Cartel!
_chalkcartel.com_
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out PhysiVantage!
_physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)_
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Crimpd!
_crimpd.com_
_Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, and Skyler Maxwell
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fav…
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Mar 21, 2022
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
Jerry Moffatt is one of my all-time climbing heroes. He is a British legend and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 80s. We talked about his early days, wanting to be a “Crag Rat”, living for free before sponsorship, pushing world standards, writing his book on mental training, and what the top climbers have in common when it comes to their mental game.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
_grasshopperclimbing.com_
_instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing_
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)
_climbwell.co/retreat-rifle_
_Use discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10% off your ticket!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, and Skyler Maxwell
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jerry-…
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Mar 14, 2022
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
This is round 2 with John Sherman aka “The Verm”. We sat in the desert near Hueco Tanks and chatted over a few beers. We talked about ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling, finding and developing areas before the internet, dealing with aging, photographing and studying birds, life lessons, injury stories, and John’s favorite beers.
*I recommend listening to my first episode with Verm (EP 108) before this episode.
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
_Or download the Crimpd app! (_Available_ for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, and Eli Conlee
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Sh…
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Mar 12, 2022
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tactics and Josh’s strategy, inventing the fix-and-follow system and why it’s a game-changer, and other considerations for people who want to attempt ‘Freerider’ or other big wall free climbs.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 44:56.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Josh's Original Episode:
EP 90: Josh Wharton
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Mar 7, 2022
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Skills Sit’ V15/16, how to change our brain chemistry, how Martin trains on his outdoor projects, and how changing his mindset unlocked his hardest climbs.
Check out Grasshopper Climbing!
grasshopperclimbing.com
instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing
_Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! _
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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/martin-keller
Nuggets:
0:08:13 – Martin’s “mini-epic” on ‘Ninja S…
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Feb 28, 2022
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names.
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chalkcartel.com
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Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
_Or download the Crimpd app! (_Available_ for iOS and Android)_
Check out PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-sherman
Nugg…
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Feb 21, 2022
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Tim Emmett is a professional climber from the UK who practices everything from cutting edge ice climbing to deep water soloing to hard sport climbing. We talked about the gritstone scene in the UK, the “why” behind taking risk, climbing his hardest after age 40 and becoming a parent, training finger strength to try to climb ‘Era Vella’ 9a (5.14d), and passing on life philosophies to others.
Check out Athletic Greens!
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Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tim-emmett
Nuggets:
0:07:15 – Being a morning person as a parent
0:10:33 – Coffee a…
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Feb 17, 2022
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Tom Randall. We went deep into how to program your training as a self-coached climber. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more.
*This is one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded, for anyone who wants to improve at climbing. Seriously. Don’t skip this episode if you are interested in training.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:44:52.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Tom's Original Episode:
EP 74: Tom Randall
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Feb 14, 2022
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
Hans Florine has held the speed record on ‘The Nose’ on El Capitan 8 separate times. He has climbed the route 112 times, with 100+ people. He loves ‘The Nose’ so much, he wrote a book about it. We talked about winning the first International Speed Climbing Championships in 1991, his earliest ascents of El Cap, top 3 big wall efficiency tips, and the value of doing hard things.
Check out PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
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Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
_Or download the Crimpd app! (_Available_ for iOS and Android)_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hans-florine
Nuggets:
0:05:29 – Why Hans uses “exacting time” to schedule things, and respecting other people’s time…
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Feb 7, 2022
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
Brent Barghahn has rope soloed ‘The Nose’ in a day, freed multiple routes on El Cap, and is a former engineer at Black Diamond. We talked about how Brent combined van life and “house hacking” to effectively retire at 28-years-old, about motocross and extreme unicycling, cutting his teeth on hard trad routes in LCC, and his setup for redpoint rope soloing.
Check out Athletic Greens!
athleticgreens.com/NUGGET
_Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brent-barghahn
Nuggets:
0:05:41 – Living in the BD parking lot, using van life as a way to save money, and a snapshot of B…
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Jan 31, 2022
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more.
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
_Or download the Crimpd app!_
Check out PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amity-warme
Nuggets:
0:06:14 – Winter weather in the PNW
0:11:19 – My first impression of Amity, and her Yosemite season tick list
0:13:11 – How to get good…
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Jan 28, 2022
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finger tendon and bone lengths, and their ability to generate force on different edge sizes. We covered Tyler’s latest recommendations for max strength finger training, how to get stronger on small holds, and when and how to use hangboard repeaters.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:16:59.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Tyler’s Original Episode:
EP 79: Tyler Nelson
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Jan 24, 2022
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a professional climber from the UK. She is also a writer, speaker, and co-host of the Curious Climber Podcast along with Hazel Findlay. We talked about her early life, impermanence, flow state, learning to try really hard, how she made the switch from hard boulders to hard sport routes, what sets high-level climbers apart, and the decision to become a mom.
Check out Athletic Greens!
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rhinoskinsolutions.com
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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott Donahue
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mina-leslie-wujastyk
Nuggets:
0:05:52 – Baby life
0:09:40 – How Mina and I met, and her road trip to t…
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Jan 17, 2022
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing.
Check out Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, and Jeremiah Johnson
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matty-hong
Nuggets:
0:05:51 – How Matty listens to podcasts
0:08:53 – Growing up in a climbing family, and his con…
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Jan 10, 2022
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness.
*Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!
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_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert Freehill
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprez
Nuggets:
6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?
9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure
12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbi…
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Jan 7, 2022
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco.
*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before this episode.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:40:55.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Steve’s Other Episodes:
EP 70: Steve Maisch
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)
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Jan 3, 2022
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more.
Check out PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
_Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!_
Check out Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert Freehill
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-moon
Nuggets:
6:02 – Putting a face to the voice, Ben’s travels in the US back in the day, and feeling like he missed out on traveling
9:17 – A dry November in the UK, an…
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Dec 16, 2021
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:03:25.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Paige's original episode:
EP 24: Paige Claassen
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Dec 13, 2021
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice.
*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, and David Lahaie
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Website Links:
Top Lists
Steven’s Favorites
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-4
Nuggets:
0:00 – Intro and updates
7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals:
7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?
14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?
16:53 – Casey: Hueco t…
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Dec 10, 2021
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn, Melina, Drew, and Sean, keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:33:49.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Tyson's original episode:
EP 29: Tyson Schoene
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Dec 6, 2021
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos.
Check out Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
_Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!_
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyra-condie
Nuggets:
5:24 – Competitive whistling, and comparing her brother to Mozart
10:13 – Musical theater, piano, and flute
11:12 – Kyra’s dream broadway roll, and Les Miserables
13:04 – Allison’s (Vest) role i…
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Nov 29, 2021
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast.
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/austin-hoyt
Nuggets:
4:30 – Austin’s bouldering stats at age 18, and how he fits climbing in while going to school
8:12 – Some of Austin's typical weekend destinations
9:48 – Favorite areas in the Northeast
11:38 – How Austin started climbing (Ninja Warrior + ice cream…
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Nov 22, 2021
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO, putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.
Check out Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinder
Nuggets:
6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave
11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock
14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy
18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping rout…
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Nov 15, 2021
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.
Donate To:
safeclimbing.org
climbmalawi.com
climbinginitiative.org
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeo
Nuggets:
5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary
6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland
9:50 – Working in Ireland
10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi
14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi
1…
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Nov 11, 2021
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from studying the NBA, how much LeBron James deadlifts, Steve’s climbing background, and how he climbed his first 5.14 at age 47, and his advice for me to improve power endurance.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:38:35.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Virtual Performance Climbing Coach Summit:
the-climb-strong-pcc-classroom.teachable.com/p/virtual-pcc-summit2021-2022
Steve's other episodes:
EP 35: Steve Bechtel
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel (our first one from January 2021)
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Nov 8, 2021
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-coleman
Nuggets:
4:30 – Garbage trucks, and a Tuesday morning in the life of Nathaniel Coleman
6:04 – What the two months following the Olympics have looked like for Nathaniel
8:20 – Finding out that climbing would be in the Olympics and having qualifying as a goal
10:44 – How Nathaniel’s goals evolved throughout the process
11:45 – Nathaniel’s mantra for combined nationals 2019, and t…
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Nov 1, 2021
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to improve your performance and power, how to turn off in the evenings to optimize recovery, and Tom shared about his childhood and ongoing struggle with anxiety from a chronic bladder issue.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-2
Nuggets:
4:35 – Tom’s anxiety about this conversation, my bleached hair, and red bush tea
7:30 – Clarifications from Part 1, more carb considerations, and keeping a training journal
18:12 – What Tom is currently working on with Aiden Roberts, and reducing fiber to drop water weight
24:45 – Alpha GBC supplementation for vegetarians and vegans, Tom’s experiment with cli…
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Oct 28, 2021
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how Natasha balances training for climbing with powerlifting, how powerlifting has made her a more patient athlete, encouraging vs. forcing adaptation, separating performing and training, and each of our climbing goals.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:16:25.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Natasha's other episodes:
EP 32: Natasha Barnes
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes (our first one from April 2021)
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Oct 25, 2021
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories to support a higher training volume, muscle protein synthesis, carbohydrate recommendations and timing, food quality, leucine supplementation, and much more.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
* Bryan Fast (he's the first one!)
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-1
Nuggets:
5:37 – The ambiance of Boulder, CO
6:41 – Tom’s night at an outdoor club
8:39 – The ClimbSci podcast (Tom’s old podcast project)
10:23 – How Tom’s nutrition approach has changed since the ClimbSci podcast days, and seeking critique on Reddit
12:30 – How I connected with Tom via Hazel Findlay, and my goal for this conversation
15:04 – Who is Tom Herbert (@u…
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Oct 18, 2021
EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal
Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery, the decision to amputate his leg, climbing harder than ever after the accident, doing El Cap in a day, dealing with chronic pain, teaching adaptive climbing, and embracing a new normal.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/craig-demartino
Nuggets:
3:28 – El Cap, Craig’s son, and owning what you like
6:09 – His kids catching the climbing bug, and watching sports from the sidelines
8:12 – Adaptive sports, ball sports, and exploring sports outside the box
9:30 – Bouldering with a prosthetic leg
11:30 – Craig’s recent broken foot
15:23 – Trauma, avoiding getting hurt gain, and the hardware in his foot
17:00 – Being in Estes, relistening to EP 11 of the Enormocast, and sitting do…
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Oct 11, 2021
EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent
Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock climbing, training to flash El Cap, the value of taking risks in life, being a climbing parent, climbing in Pakistan, how to find an adventure without flying overseas, and the benefits of stiff shoes.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-wharton
Nuggets:
3:55 – Josh’s age, and physical vs. technical/tactical progression
5:40 – How Josh manages to be such a good all-arounder and still climb 5.14
9:13 – Trying to do every route in the Black Canyon and Rifle
11:42 – Uber loc(al)s, and using obscure easy routes to prepare for big mountains
13:02 – Josh’s flash and onsight ability, tips and tricks, and climbing with a lot of confidence
17:01 – How to get better…
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Oct 4, 2021
EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength while living on the road and climbing full-time, advice for nomadic living, life mottos, try-hard mindset, hair dye, M&Ms, singalong jams, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
One-On-One Consultations:
thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-3
Nuggets:
0:00 – Q&A 3 overview, and info about Patreon and one-on-one consultations
5:05 – Faelan’s Question: Lessons from two winters of training on my (Steven’s) home wall, and my best week of climbing ever
16:20 – Andrew K’s Question: Have you ever visited The New or other east coast crags? What areas do you dream of visiting?
17:44 – Jimmy’s Question: How much running should someone do for sport climbing to build cardio?
20:39 – Joe’s Question: Am I l…
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Sep 30, 2021
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Allison Vest. We talked about her sends of ‘Throwin’ the Houlihan’ and ‘Rodeo Free Europe’ (both 5.14a) at the Wild Iris, how she trained her fingers for the savage monos, stories and laughs from her road trip with Alex Johnson, rapping, reciting the Periodic Table of Elements in under 45 seconds, music collaborations, and much more.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 53:16.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Sep 27, 2021
EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’
Ben Ditto is a professional climber and photographer from Bishop, California. We talked about Ben’s upbringing and early climbing, competing against Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, falling in love with the mountains, Dynafit dangling and near-death experiences, advice for aspiring photographers, _The Adventures of the Dodo_, and climbing ‘Father Time’ with his wife Katie Lambert. You can learn more about Ben at bendittophoto.com
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-ditto
Nuggets:
3:26 – Filming a car commercial
4:54 – Ben’s studio, and staying interested in learning new things
6:58 – Ben’s photography, Instagram captions, and visual storytelling
9:18 – Getting started in photography, Ben’s first camera, and photography as a ticket to freedom
11:42 – Pursuing a life that doesn’t fit in a box, growing up in Chattanooga TN, and Ben’s dad
16:01…
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Sep 20, 2021
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
Alejandra (Alita) Contreras is a half Colombian half Venezualan professional rock climber, coach, and translator. We talked about the economic situation in Venezuela and why she moved to Colombia six years ago, about living in Germany and translating training books by Udo Neumann, about coaching women, our global climbing family, and her current 5.14a project.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alita-contreras
Nuggets:
1:50 – Alegria
3:52 – Alita vs. Alejandra
6:40 – The situation in Venezuela, and why Alita emigrated to Columbia
14:21 – Studying languages, Alita’s father, singing opera, and becoming interested in Germany
18:48 – Separating languages in your head
21:13 – Tips for learning a new language
25:36 – Thinking differently, and having different personalities in different languages
28:13 – Bad milk
29:42 – The many things Alita does for w…
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Sep 13, 2021
EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder
Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’, his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked about how Dylan uses a spray wall for 95% of his training, how he prepares for both bouldering and sport climbing trips, and about recovering from an eating disorder to climb his hardest ever.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dylan-barks
Nuggets:
4:00 – Vanlife pipedreams, Dylan’s work and school, and finding his groove climbing outside
7:05 – Being in both the competition and outdoor worlds
8:30 – Bad haircut timing, and the alpine as a harsh and special place
11:32 – How Dylan prepared for his trip to RMNP, and spray wall training for both bouldering and sport climbing
14:11 – Dylan’s training philosophy, and why he uses the spray wall
16:24 – The…
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Sep 9, 2021
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch. We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson, how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from our last episode.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 2:45:31.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Sep 6, 2021
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emil-abrahamsson
Nuggets:
3:11 – Building a van and planning a bouldering trip around Europe
6:01 – My bouldering goals, Emil’s progression, and setting goals
9:27 – Trying a V15 as a V9 climber, and how a lot of climbers stay “comfortable” at a specific level
12:53 – ‘The Big Island’
17:17 – Emil’s first day of climbing, struggling early on, and getting hooked
19:38 – Alternating difficulty and volume goals
21:32 – ‘The Queen Mothe…
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Aug 30, 2021
EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing
Boone Speed is a photographer, innovator, and was the first American to climb 5.14b with his route ‘Super Tweak’ in Logan Canyon, UT. We talked about Boone’s upbringing, discovering climbing in American Fork, most memorable routes and trips, bolting and training in the Hell Cave, creating the Grasshopper Board, and his vision for the future of artificial climbing.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/boone-speed
Nuggets:
2:17 – The Paleo Diet, and Boone’s lunchables
4:51 – Twitching on airplanes, and cutting out sugar
6:09 – Being a picky eater as a kid
6:47 – Growing up in Lindon UT, and the development of Silicon Slope
8:11 – Working at the bronze foundry as a teenager, and Boone’s dad
12:48 – The expectations Boone’s parents had for him, and being proud of how he’s lived his life
14:42 – Thriving in the chaos, and Boone’s beautiful and a…
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Aug 28, 2021
Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Nathan Hadley. We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ and flashed the ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ on The Diamond. We talked about how Nathan prepared for the trip, how he and his partner Mike Kerzhner sussed ‘The Honeymoon’, and the day of the send.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:03:36.
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Aug 23, 2021
EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses
Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn
Nuggets:
2:30 – The other side of the mic
4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing
7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music
10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world
11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought
12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming
16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating d…
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Aug 16, 2021
EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting
Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
ClimbWell Retreat:
climbwell.co/retreat-rifle
Use code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christine-deyo
Nuggets:
2:30 – Christine’s dad, and falling in love with bouldering
4:44 – Why Oregon?
6:02 – Studying biochemistry, unemployment, and discovering route setting
9:38 – The Nightly Business Report on PBS
11:58 – Christine’s early route setting education
14:26 – How route setting qualifications have evolved, and what Christine looks for when hir…
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Aug 12, 2021
Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 48:46.
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Aug 9, 2021
EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’
Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c.
Support the Podcast
Become a Patron
ClimbWell Retreat:
climbwell.co/retreat-rifle
Use code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hazel-findlay
Nuggets:
5:00 – Talking across time zones, and Hazel’s home in Wales
7:00 – Masters studies, Brexit + covid, and Hazel’s lifestyle these days
9:33 – Being trapped on the ferry curing covid
11:25 – Weather in Wales
16:11 – Priorities, balancing climbing, coaching, and school, and doing stuff that involves others
20:52 – Coaching is asking questions, and helping people figure out what they want and how they can get there…
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Aug 2, 2021
EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet
Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of _The Paleo Solution_ and _Wired To Eat_. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book _Sacred Cow_.
Support the Podcast
Become a Patron
Join the Facebook Group
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolf
Nuggets:
3:17 – Overview of the conversation
5:22 – Robb’s breakfast breakdown
9:22 – Savory breakfast, protein, and how Robb navigates nutrition with his kids
13:49 – Robb’s background in biochemistry, studying cancer, ulcerative colitis, and his path to ancestral diets and paleo in 1998
17:34 – Establishing the 1st and 4th Crossfit Affiliate gyms, working with athletes on their nutrition, and helping normal people with complex health issues
22:13 – Why I (Steven) appreciate Robb…
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Jul 29, 2021
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:47:11.
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Jul 26, 2021
EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.
Support the Podcast
Become a Patron
Join Facebook Group
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson
Nuggets:
2:18 – Doughnuts and wiffle ball
6:08 – Overview of the conversation, and Tyler’s dad
11:53 – Chiropractic medicine and watching his dad help people as a kid
14:48 – Tyler’s education
16:38 – Starting to climb in college
18:43 – Wanting to work with athletes, and studying tendinopathy
21:06 – Tyler’s path to C4HP (Camp 4 Human Performance) and the work he does now
25:48 – Root cause
28:29 – Tyler’s most common recommendation: more variation
32:33 – How BFR (blood fl…
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Jul 19, 2021
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’.
Support the Podcast
Become a Patron
Join Facebook Group
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehl
Nuggets:
2:05 – Karate
6:48 – Power screaming and made-up words
9:20 – ‘Count to Six and Die’
10:47 – Growing up in a small town in Maryland, climbing trees, the basement home wall, and Jason’s go-to move
15:53 – Parental support
16:34 – Jason’s journey to bouldering, and climbing ‘Evilution’
20:25 – Getting noticed for highballing, and bouldering ‘The Fly’
25:15 – Joe’s Valley
27:29 – Jason in High School, pocket protectors, and the weird…
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Jul 12, 2021
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.
Support the Podcast
Become a Patron
Join Facebook Group
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vest
Nuggets:
3:24 – The climbing closet
4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace
11:23 – A mix of emotions
12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber
17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure
23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities
24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates
28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie
32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training
35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”
41:47 – I…
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Jul 8, 2021
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 50:27.
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Jul 7, 2021
A Call from Ethan
Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me.
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Jul 5, 2021
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Facebook Group:
facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbing
Private Q&As:
thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2
Nuggets:
00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As
05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?
11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’?
20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate?
23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Ca…
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Jun 28, 2021
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book _Icarus Syndrome_, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long
Nuggets:
3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds
6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing
10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing
12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing
17:47 – Paisano Overhang
30:23 – Hangover
38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing
47:04 – Camp 4 as a Ba…
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Jun 24, 2021
Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:34:55.
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Jun 21, 2021
EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall
Nuggets:
3:35 – The cellar
6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?
11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength
14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience
18:19 – What Tom did to get strong
23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders
28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits
37:59 – Finger training metho…
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Jun 14, 2021
EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing
Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omeara
Nuggets:
3:47 – Breakfast, day-old pastries, and experimenting with diet
7:55 – Food diary, sleep, and eating enough
15:42 – Early days in Leavenworth
19:32 – How Kyle started climbing, Merrimore Park, and planting the seed of coaching
26:46 – ‘Rampage’, first Leavenworth days, and Squamish
32:36 – Transitioning into sport climbing, his first 5.13,
37:16 – Kyle’s “Best of the best” list, and grading everything in Index grades
42:12 – ‘Crown Jewel’
56:01 – Outdoor bouldering…
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Jun 10, 2021
Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 44:54.
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Jun 7, 2021
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen
This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.
Discount code:
“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2
Nuggets:
01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football
11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season
15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)
21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles
22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c
27:53 – Another Question…
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May 31, 2021
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core
Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book _Training for Climbing_ and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core.
Discount code:
“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-1
Nuggets:
6:01 – Weatherman
11:31 – Snowstorms, solving complex puzzles, and similarities between forecasting weather and training for climbing
15:18 – The best send conditions
17:38 – TV weather and developing routes in the New River Gorge
18:56 – Eric’s first day of climbing
21:15 – Patron Question from Max (Eric’s history climbing in PA, and early development at the New)
24:29 – Patron Question…
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May 27, 2021
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 43:03.
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May 24, 2021
EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief
Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15. We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maisch
Nuggets:
5:10 – Ballet class
6:20 – Steve’s beginnings in climbing, grad school, training breakthroughs, and first bad finger injury
13:00 – Becoming interested in quantifying training, and observing the elites
16:50 – How Steve and I connected, the Hueco training plan idea, and addressing individual needs in training
23:38 – Climbing strength
26:33 – Underperforming vs overperforming your finger strength
28:53 – The bouldering pyramid
31:40 – The 85% rule, and the strength…
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May 17, 2021
EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature
Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok, daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ron-kauk
Nuggets:
4:17 – Out of the blue, and reflecting on a life of climbing
8:19 – Sylvester Stallone, Wolfgang Gulich, and a brief career in Hollywood
18:48 – Doubling for Tom Cruise, and working on films in Yosemite
20:14 – “We would do anything to make $1000.”
23:24 – Ron’s first wilderness trip at age 14, and early rock climbing
28:43 – Rattlesnake Ridge
32:33 – Climbing ‘The Nutcracker'
35:17 – Catching rides to Yosemite,…
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May 13, 2021
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary _In Search of Greatness_, and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:23:45.
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May 10, 2021
EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck
Steve McClure is one of the best rock-climbers in the world, having made the FA of the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b (5.15b), at age 46. We talked about early hitchhiking stories, discovering sport climbing, the three parts of climbing ability, how to improve over the long haul, foot-on campusing, and much more.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-mcclure
Nuggets:
4:12 – Podcasts, and the desire to listen
6:22 – Hitching
13:58 – Growing up in the Northeast of England, and the climbing wall Steve built in his garage
18:43 – Early climbing, and discovering sport climbing
22:36 – Steve’s first E3
26:42 – Tenacity, and trying hard
29:22 – “It’s all down to motivation.” - Ben Moon
34:16 – ‘Rainman’
37:28 – Going with the flow vs. pursuing long-term goals
44:08 – ‘Mutation’, and Will Bossi
47:21 – “You make your own luck.”
48:19 – Was ‘Mutation’ the fir…
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May 3, 2021
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jennings
Nuggets:
4:10 – Heth’s background in physical therapy, functional medicine, and pain science
6:55 – A new paradigm for understanding pain
8:22 – “It’s all in my head.” and “It’s always real.”
9:40 – Lorimer Moseley, and the hammer in the neck story
14:50 – Red light blue light
15:55 – The leg scratch
17:40 – Chronic vs acute pain
21:09 – The mountain illustration of tissue capacity, the pain buffer, and how the brain’s overprotection leads to chronic pain
24:19 – Rehabbing chronic elbo…
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Apr 29, 2021
Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mercedes Pollmeier. I asked for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled Patron questions about individual bony morphology, improving the back bridge, when and how to stretch the hamstrings, whether it is ever too late to begin training flexibility, and Mercedes made a case for why flexibility training is as important as strength training for athletes.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:20:32.
Resources:
Kit Laughlin - Moving Pelvis in Pancake Position
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Apr 26, 2021
EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training
Mercedes Pollmeier is a climbing coach with a master’s in human movement. We discussed key stretches for climbers, how to warm up for a limit session, whether or not static stretching reduces power, how to improve your flexibility in 6 minutes per day, and “food rules” from her recent book, _Peak Nutrition_.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mercedes-pollmeier
Nuggets:
5:14 – Wind and head colds
8:29 – Mercedes trip to Red Rocks, and focusing on recovering
9:44 – Resting after a trip, deloading, and blood flow restriction (BFR) training
13:30 – More about BFR and what it is used for
22:34 – Mercedes background, current coaching practice, and programs
25:12 – Masters in human movement
26:54 – How we learn to move better
29:43 – Terminology: “mobility” and “flexibility”
37:18 – Mobility prep/warmup for a climbing session
40:51 – Warmup duration, and static stretching before…
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Apr 22, 2021
BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk
In this bonus episode, Matt Sparks joins me to celebrate Earth Day by talking about the environmental impacts of chalk, best practices, and by offering listeners a discount for Pika liquid chalk.
Shop Liquid Chalk:
pika.life/products
Discount Code for 25% Off:
NUGGETDISCOUNT
Matt's Article:
https://pika.life/the-environmental-impact-of-rock-climbing-chalk/
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Apr 19, 2021
EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero
Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the pressure to become a doctor, early YouTube fame, climbing structures, studying neuroscience, brain scans, overcoming fear, motorcycles, and making a TV show.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalie-duran
Nuggets:
3:16 – “Today is Thursday!”
5:04 – Natalie’s new roller skates
6:46 – Learning in the shadows…
8:10 – Style transitions
9:54 – Who is Ninja Natalie
12:41 – Born to be a doctor, growing up with parental pressure, and discovering YouTube
17:19 – The Cinnamon Challenge, sharing stories, and going viral
21:40 – A day in the life
25:02 – How to stay organized
27:02 – “The theme parks are closed so I made my own.”
29:09 – The police code
31:46 – The swing
33:27…
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Apr 15, 2021
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:00:20.
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Apr 12, 2021
EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive
Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, finding your “why”, learning new skills, how to achieve world-class endurance without training endurance, and holding on and letting go.
GoFundMe for Kyler:
https://www.gofundme.com/f/throw-down-for-kyler-pallister
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christophe-bichet
Nuggets:
6:55 – Christophe’s dimensions, and Fanconi Anemia
8:50 – What I remember about Christophe, and why he doesn’t like knowing names and grades of routes
12:14 – How Christophe relates to his accomplishments
13:43 – ‘Big Mac’, Smith Rock, and why guidebook grades feel irrelevant to Christophe
17:22 – How grades become limits
18:49 – Growing up feeling different from his peers, feeling isolated, and regai…
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Apr 5, 2021
EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity
Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she retired from competing in 2017, discovering a new self-identity outside of climbing, pole dancing, getting back to climbing, her goal to climb V14, and current training.
Support the Podcast:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/megan-mascarenas
Nuggets:
6:45 – Tuna sandwich and coffee
9:19 – Whiskey (the dog, not the alcohol)
10:35 – Sunday mornings
11:07 – Rubiks Cubes
15:20 – Megan’s cloud puzzle
16:00 – The puzzle addiction, and becoming a climber at age 2
18:45 – Siblings and coaches
22:33 – Retiring from competition and transitioning away from climbing
26:04 – The two sides of freedom, and the path to medicine
29:26 – How Megan achieved a 4.7 GPA in high school, and getting an A- in Rock Climbing class
31:56…
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Apr 1, 2021
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position” (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer issues, and maintaining the power mullet.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 2:06:41.
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Mar 29, 2021
EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers
In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Learn more about Q&As:
thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-content
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1
Nuggets:
00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format
06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?
12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?
14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?
14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?
15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story?
17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does…
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Mar 22, 2021
EP 61: Chelsea Murn — How to Rewire Your Brain, Take Courageous Leaps, and Manifest Your Dream Life
Chelsea Murn is a climbing and business coach, and the founder of Lady Beta Coaching. We talked about making 100k in her first year of climbing coaching, recommendations for new entrepreneurs, getting uncomfortable, investing in ourselves, scarcity vs. abundance, rewiring our limiting beliefs, money mindset, and Hogwarts letters.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chelsea-murn
Nuggets:
5:04 – Chelsea’s morning routines, and scheduling similar things on specific days
8:45 – Batching, and Do Not Disturb mode
12:20 – Creating boundaries, and making time to enjoy climbing
13:33 – Having a coach
16:24 – Being empowered and validated by other women in her business school
17:58 – Making $220k last year, and the story of climbing her first 5.13b at Deep Creek
24:19 – Description of Deep Creek
27:11 – Making $100k in her first year as a climbing coach, and getting started in business coaching
32:59…
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Mar 18, 2021
Follow-Up: Ben Herrington — A Guide to Developing New Boulders (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ben Herrington. We talked about the treasure hunters mindset and clues to look for when developing new boulders, go-to tools for cleaning a new line, how to suss out moves off the deck, building landings, Ben’s new gym in the Tri-Cities, WA, and setting himself boulders that attack his weaknesses.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 47:14.
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Mar 15, 2021
EP 60: Leif Gasch — Becoming a Trainer, Mini-Goals, and Tackling Listener Questions
Leif Gasch has been a climber for over 25 years and now works as a trainer and coach. We talked about his path from construction to coaching, balancing training with a physically demanding job, how to be a better weekend warrior, mini-goals, breaking into new grades, warming up for hard redpoints, and much more.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leif-gasch
Nuggets:
4:36 – “Back porch kind of a deal”
5:28 – Living on the road during covid, and moving back to Lander
8:06 – The pod, Leif’s first trip to Hueco with Scott Milton, and sending Frogger
11:18 – Years of cherry-picking, new development in Hueco, and becoming a guide
12:51 – Early carpentry, becoming an electrition, and building a house
15:40 – Growing up on a ranch, hunting, and climbing Devils Tower
17:54 – Climbing in Cody, ‘The Fuz’ climbing gang, teaching, and falling in love with climbing
21:45 – “You come to Lander, y…
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Mar 11, 2021
EP 59: My Eating Disorder — Starving Myself to Climb Harder, and Lessons Learned
In this solo episode, I share my experience with an eating disorder. I talk about how an inaccurate DEXA scan and a desire to climb harder spiraled into body dysmorphia, failure, and shame. I also talk about what led me out of it, reframing the way I think about weight, key lessons and takeaways, where I am at now with weight and diet, and how I plan to move forward.
Support the Podcast:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/my-eating-disorder
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Mar 8, 2021
EP 58: Carlos Tkacz — Lessons from Teaching, a Free Training Book, and Self-Publishing Sci-Fi
Carlos Tkacz is a teacher, author, and lover of literature. He also lives in a van and climbs V13. We talked about many things, including a reading list given to him by his friend, impactful quotes, lessons learned from students, starting climbing in his 20’s and discovering training, writing a training book, self-publishing sci-fi novels, public speaking advice, and sharing ideas.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-tkacz
Instagram Links:
@boulderbushido
@thenuggetclimbing
Nuggets:
2:35 – The record button
3:37 – Stickers and paintings
6:37 – Books from the reading list
11:16 – James Baldwin quote
12:38 – How Carlos uses Instagram
16:16 – ‘Turbulence’ and East of Eden
22:45 – Plans to go back to school for a Ph.D. in Literature, and living in a world of stories
26:18 – The moment Carlos knew he wanted to be a teacher
31:01 – Teaching Communication 101
34:54 – Public speak…
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Mar 4, 2021
Follow-Up: Emily Harrington — Sending 'Golden Gate', Shoe Tricks, and Pancakes (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Emily Harrington. We talked about her send of ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, finding flow state after a minor head injury, using two pairs of TC Pros to climb the Monster Offwidth, her recent trip to the VRG, how she has trained Adrian (her partner) to climb his first 5.13b, and favorite pancake toppings.
You can get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 36:17.
Learn more: thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups
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Mar 1, 2021
EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions
This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book _9 Out of 10 Climbers_, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more.
Support the Podcast:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2
Nuggets:
4:10 – Why Dave wrote ‘9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’
11:09 – Using ‘9 out of 10’ to discover your own individual pitfalls, and why Dave has become more and more interested in lifestyle
15:28 – Using your climbing partners as mirrors, changing your circumstances, and the shortcut to sending your project
21:00 – Dave’s common pitfall—quality recovery
22:25 – Productivity and the value of having a home wall
26:30 – “Bouldering is king”, and how Dave fits indoor bouldering se…
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Feb 22, 2021
EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density
Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books. We talked about improving from 13d to 14d in 18 months, the ritual of approaching the fingerboard, how to reduce the risk of tendon injuries, interpreting scientific research, nutrient density, and more.
Support the Podcast:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-1
Nuggets:
4:26 – The hardest thing Dave has ever downclimbed
9:06 – Downclimbing for climbing up?
9:57 – Going from 8b to 8c+ (13d to 14c) in 18 months as an experienced climber
17:06 – Dave’s thoughts on fingerboarding 6-days per week vs. 2-3 days per week with longer sessions
21:57 – Becoming less sure about things as time goes on, and the endurance study example
24:25 – Dave’s theory about level of effort as the key to finger strength gains
27:42 – The ritual of approachin…
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Feb 18, 2021
BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats
In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell, and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-day experience, and talks about her fellow coaches and their vision for future events.
10% Discount Code:
“NUGGET10”
Learn More about Sign Up:
climbwell.co/retreat
Retreat Dates and Location:
April 8-11 in Veyo, Utah
(Second retreat has been canceled)
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Feb 18, 2021
Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in and out of training phases, embracing curiosity to overcome fear, and reflecting on lessons learned.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 33:57.
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Feb 15, 2021
EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change
Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music.
Support Climbing for Change:
donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch
Support the Podcast:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kai-lightner
Nuggets:
2:53 – Tension boarding, creativity in climbing, and Kai’s first experience with hangboarding
6:55 – Kai’s go-to training music
8:01 – Halloween costumes, and the Tupac and T.I. quotes Kai shared in his graduation speech
10:39 – The Olympics, Kai’s early role models, Chris Brown’s music, and Kai’s mom
11:24 – Growing up climbing everything, the flagpole story, and Kai’s first day in a climbing gym
16:16 – Kai’s first climbin…
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Feb 8, 2021
EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding
Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start, a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his nickname ‘Miami Vice’, early mentors, losing friends in the mountains, recovering from a paragliding accident, starting a business, and innovating new products.
Alpine Start Kickstarter:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mikeycrouch/alpine-start-with-benefits
Support the Podcast:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal
Nuggets:
2:49 – “Still starting at the bottom and trying to go to the top”
3:53 – Miami Vice, training at a young age, Tony Yaniro, and the PCA
7:19 – Matt’s first highball in Hueco
13:32 – Mentorship of Eric DeCaria, Micah Dash, and Jonny Copp
17:55 – Losing friends
20:13 – Yuji Hirayama, kids bicycles, and Beat Kammberlander
22:10 – Studying Tibetan Buddhism and Psychology in sc…
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Feb 4, 2021
Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:04.
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Feb 1, 2021
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2
Nuggets:
4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave
10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits
13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box
14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc)
16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system
21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute
22:46 – How Jon structur…
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Jan 25, 2021
EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15
Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we talked about filming Emily Harrington on her in-a-day ascent of ‘Golden Gate’, about Jon’s early climbing, about pursuing the goal of V15, and about his struggle with a bizarre injury.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-1
Nuggets:
2:54 – Coffee, intermittent fasting, and being more productive in the morning
4:24 – Jon’s go-to breakfast on a climbing day, and on an El Cap filming day, and caffeine
6:20 – Getting back from Yosemite, and Jon’s five-year film project with Emily Harrington
8:03 – Emily’s scary fall in November 2019
13:17 – Emily climbing ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, and her dramatic fall near the top
23:23 – Emily’s grit, and how Alex Honnold is different than…
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Jan 21, 2021
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Bechtel. We talked about goal setting, how drinking more water can help with fat loss, the "Three Good Tries" rule, building skills vs. habits, three things to consider when choosing a training program, the value and limitations of training assessments, and why we shouldn’t necessarily depend on scientific research to tell us what to do.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:24:10.
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Jan 18, 2021
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current injuries, the steps to becoming a kneebar wizard, projecting tips, hard conversations, and balancing climbing goals with maintaining a healthy relationship.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-heather-weidner
Nuggets:
2:41 – How Heather broke her own finger climbing at Shelf Road, and being injured together
5:52 – Counting drinks
9:24 – New Year resolutions, goal setting, and the Green River trip
13:52 – Heather’s climbing origin story, her background in dance, and the choreography of projecting
18:48 – Chris’s climbing origin story, and being introduced to rock climbing and mountains
21:05 – Living in Boulder and maintaining roots in Vegas
21:50 – The art of becoming a kneebar wizard…
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Jan 11, 2021
EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing
Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned from ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’, about his off-season and pre-training modes, about bouldering for sport climbing, and about his current 5.15 project at The Fortress in Colorado.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell
Nuggets:
4:05 – Training at home during quarantine, and forced time off from climbing
5:44 – Taking time off over the holidays, and setting goals for the new year
8:14 – How Jon trains for a goal route (broad strokes)
10:45 – Tapering, the performance window, and incorporating hiking when preparing for ‘Biographie’
14:04 – Jon’s typical climbing schedule when trying a 5.15 project, and differences between ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’
15:46 – Sending ‘La…
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Jan 7, 2021
Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Lizzy VanPatten. We talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some of Oregon’s finest columnar basalt. This was also Lizzy's first 5.13. We talked about the process of projecting the route, about the meaning behind the name, and about breaking down the arbitrary limits we create for ourselves.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:03:33.
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Jan 4, 2021
Darek Krol Memorial Clip
This is a short clip that I shared at Darek Krol’s memorial service. I felt that this clip captured some of Darek’s philosophy of life, his spirit, and his humor. I wanted to share it here in case you don’t have a chance to listen through the full 3-hour episode. We will miss you, Darek.
Full Episode:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol
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Jan 4, 2021
EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol
Darek Krol was known by many as the “Mayor of Rifle”. He managed to climb 400+ of Rifle’s roughly 500 routes in his 23 years in the canyon. Darek was killed in an avalanche shortly after this interview. We talked about his love of climbing, about stewardship, and about his close friend, the late Dave Pegg. Darek was well-loved, and he will be deeply missed.
Darek Krol Memorial Fund:
http://www.gofundme.com/f/darek-krol-memorial-fund
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol
Nuggets:
4:07 – Discovering climbing in Poland
7:44 – Love at first rock climb, and climbing in his “whities” before harnesses
11:35 – ‘Philology’, and ‘The Conquerors of the Useless’
17:04 – What defines us as human beings, and hugging the planet
26:00 – Balancing relationships with climbing
28:25 – Moving to America
32:58 – Parallel lives in America and Poland, telling stories, and connecting with people in Rifle
38:56 – Climbing as a social sport,…
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Dec 21, 2020
Merry Christmas!
In this episode, Steven thanks listeners for an amazing year and for supporting the podcast. He also shares some Christmas karaoke that he recorded in his van...
Feedback Form:
thenuggetclimbing.com/feedback
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Dec 14, 2020
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2
Athletic Brewing:
Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers
Shop Athletic Brewing Beer
Nuggets:
1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a
5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength)
12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot”
16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session
20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength)
21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’…
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Dec 10, 2020
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jasna Hodžić. We talked about the projecting process and Jasna’s notetaking process, what she learned from reflecting on ‘Voodoo’ 14b, and her considerations when choosing a new goal. We also talked about navigating climbing partnerships, and how to be honest upfront to avoid issues later.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:03:04.
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Dec 7, 2020
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
Alex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1
Athletic Brewing:
Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers
Shop Athletic Brewing Beer
Nuggets:
4:09 – Mr. Golden Sun
7:40 – Googly eyed elephant
8:36 – Fritz
10:50 – An amazing day in Yosemite with Fritz
13:06 – The 100 V10’s goal, and Alex’s approach to climbing
18:33 – Balancing hard projecting with volume
22:10 – Obsession over a single project, and volume bouldering games
26:06 – The Swarm, trying to qualify for the Olympics, and the vulnerability of…
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Dec 2, 2020
T-Shirt Giveaway!
My friend Trevor made shirts for The Nugget Climbing Podcast, and I am giving them away to some of you! Well, sort of...
Learn more and reserve your shirt at thenuggetclimbing.com/giveaway
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Nov 30, 2020
EP 46: Chris Kalous — Untold Stories, the Mythical Grade of A6+, and the Gift of Podcasting
Chris Kalous is the host of the Enormocast and has been immersed in climbing for more than thirty years. We talked about training to be a climber in high school gym class, climbing mountains in New Zealand, soloing El Cap in winter, the infamous “Aid Rant” and the mythical grade of A6+, the ‘Freerider’, old-guy training, raising a kid, and the future of the Enormocast.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-kalous
Nuggets:
2:41 – Election hangover and my visit to Bonfire Coffee
5:14 – Growing up in the Midwest and reading about John Bachar in Outside Magazine
6:34 – Training for climbing in high school gym class
9:53 – First day of outdoor climbing at Horsetooth Reservoir, and the Outdoor Adventure Floor at CSU
12:15 – Guiding at Colorado Mountain School
15:07 – Chris’s first big international trip to Australia
20:06 – Becoming interested in climbing history, reading ‘Climb!’ cove…
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Nov 26, 2020
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Brittany Goris. We talked about her season in Vedauwoo and some of the top offwidth climbing techniques she learned, about onsighting her first 5.13 trad route in Indian Creek, about how she approaches gear selection and placement for hard splitter projects and onsight attempts, and about her growing finger sizes.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:50.
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Nov 23, 2020
EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’
Dru Mack is a professional rock climber who spent his formative years in the Red River Gorge, and is now traveling full time pursuing hard sport climbing. Nat Gustafson sits in on our conversation to talk about hard projecting, tricks for maintaining power and finger strength, an update on “The List”, training recommendations, hype up songs, and Dru’s battle with ‘The Crew’ 5.14c in Rifle.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dru-mack
Nuggets:
4:12 – Send Frosties vs. sad Frosties, DQ Blizzards, and steak dinners
6:01 – One “health day” per week, and crunches for beach abs
7:17 – Battling ‘The Crew’
9:14 – Project climbing vs. mixing it up, and “every project has a different process”
13:01 – ‘The Flame’, and going on bouldering trips to help his sport climbing
16:10 – Balancing performance climbing with Moonboard sessions, bouldering trips, and hangboarding
18:41 – Dru’s…
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Nov 16, 2020
EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) — The Guy Behind The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven Dimmitt is the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In this reverse interview, Ethan Pringle takes over and asks Steven about his upbringing, his path through climbing, and about starting the podcast. This episode also features questions from past guests on the show, asking Steven about some of his biggest mistakes, lessons learned, climbing heroes, and inner life.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-dimmitt
Nuggets:
2:13 – Beef and veggie breakfast tacos
5:04 – Switching interview roles
6:49 – The early years and growing up in Wenatchee, WA
10:27 – Traveling as a kid, South America, and cockroaches
13:02 – Getting robbed in South America
15:22 – Parents, podcast hikes, and connecting through the podcast
20:40 – Piano lessons and threatening to cut my fingers off
22:13 – Music up through high school
26:01 – Going to college in Bellingham, majoring in music, and playing in (and…
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Nov 12, 2020
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — ‘Nu World’ and the ‘Event Horizon’ Project (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about chasing weather in New England, about Jaws II, about the FA of ‘Nu World’ 5.15a/b, about the ‘Event Horizon’ project (the direct finish to ‘Nu World’), and about some of the strategies and tactics Jonathan uses when returning for a new round of attempts on a multi-season project.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 26:42.
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Nov 9, 2020
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
Emily Harrington is a professional climber whose accomplishments span the climbing spectrum. From winning National Championships, to summiting Mt. Everest, to free climbing El Capitan, Emily has done it all. We talked about projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, partnering with Alex Honnold, embracing fear, eating to fuel your body, and cupcake batter ice cream.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emily-harrington
Nuggets:
3:14 – Being at home, the next round of tries, and “it’s been a long process”
5:29 – Why Emily chose ‘Golden Gate’ in a day as a goal
10:21 – Emily’s preparation for ‘Golden Gate’ this season
13:22 – Partnering up with Alex Honnold
16:36 – Emily’s accident last fall, and recalibrating for this attempt
19:36 – Breakdown of ‘Golden Gate’ and least favorite pitches (the Hollow Flake/ all fo the downclimbs and offwidths)
23:18 – Climbing the Monster Offwidth an…
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Nov 2, 2020
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the world. We geeked out about all things nutrition: meal timing, protein synthesis, the role of carbs, supplements for climbers, strategies for fat loss, foods to avoid, navigating holidays, and Hailey’s favorite “healthified” treats.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hailey-franklin-fultz
Nuggets:
3:21 – Moving into the RV
6:34 – Travel plans, meeting in middle school, and holiday family time
8:16 – Rifle and potential plans to meet up
9:32 – Hailey’s background in dance, dabbling in climbing, and appreciating watching climbing
11:53 – Hailey’s history with ballet and dance, and growing a love for fitness and functional strength training
12:44 – Becoming interested in nutrition in college, starti…
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Oct 29, 2020
Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Drew Ruana. We talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', as well his process projecting 'The Grand Illusion', and plans for summer training.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 18:34.
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Oct 26, 2020
EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective
This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types of bouldering challenges, about the value and importance of route setting in a growing industry, about The Lab, and keeping training in perspective.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-2
Nuggets:
2:18 – RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, and athletic empathy
10:39 – More about RIC and the appropriate response/attitude for each
20:22 – “We need to do better for setters”
29:26 – Drawing comparisons between setting and the restaurant industry, and indoor climbing as a soon-to-be billion-dollar industry
37:56 – The Lab
48:40 – Gratitude for the partners who support us
51:07 – Excited about climbing
54:31 – Recent favorite music
57:44…
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Oct 19, 2020
EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing
Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-1
Nuggets:
3:10 – The joys of parenting
4:34 – Tonde’s shitty gym session, the ratio of “good” to “bad” sessions, and collecting bad sessions
7:01 – Getting back in shape, Tonde’s “Level 1” goals, and climbing with Nathan Hadley
8:50 – Tonde’s current role at the Bouldering Project
9:56 – Getting hired, Tonde’s dream world, and the happy accident of circuit setting
15:05 – The problem with treating climbing grades as a fixed mea…
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Oct 15, 2020
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)
This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t do, about the biggest difference between Adam Ondra and everyone else, about Ethan’s projects in Northern California, and about my recent projects in Ten Sleep.
You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 51:13.
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Oct 12, 2020
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz
Nuggets:
2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day”
5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’
5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16
8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing
9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno
11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel”
14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better”
15:28 – Using your b…
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Oct 5, 2020
EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)
Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulletproof his fingers, training endurance using up-down-ups, veganism, working in tech, his desire to help make positive change in the world, and gunning for 5.15.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/solomon-barth
Nuggets:
2:29 – Solomon’s recent climbing trip, bad weather, and land hurricanes
3:49 – Back in the gym after COVID
5:11 – Solomon’s Smith Rock trip
10:56 – Tactics for flashing routes
14:29 – Being a training geek and reaching out to Climb Strong for coaching
16:54 – Working with Alex Bridgewater and bulletproofing his fingers on the hangboard
19:03 – Solomon’s experience with the Go-A-Hundred hangboard program
21:11 – Takeaways from working with Tyler Nelson on finger injury preven…
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Sep 28, 2020
EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips
Simon Carter is an Australian photographer, and has been described by the editor of Rock and Ice Magazine as “arguably the greatest climbing photographer of all time”. We talked about building his first darkroom at age 15, pursuing full-time climbing in the early ’90s, action vs. landscape, camera equipment, the Taipan/Grampian closure, and Simon’s top 10 climbing photography tips.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-carter
Nuggets:
1:50– The 2018 World Climbing Calendar, and the Onsight Photography business
3:14 – Early photography, and building a darkroom in the family bathroom at age 15
5:10 – Changing schools for photography and discovering climbing
6:06 – Reading mountaineering books, Simon’s childhood nickname, early outdoor adventures, and getting obsessed with rock climbing
8:19 – Working at the Australian University and losing his passion for photography
10:56 – Night school,…
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Sep 24, 2020
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets
Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconceptions about deadlifting, maintenance strength training, Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol, why climbing is important, and keeping things in perspective.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-manganiello
Nuggets:
1:28 – Breakfast
2:32 – Early strength training, transitioning from multisport athlete to focused climber, and taking things “all the way”
10:07 – Outliers, and asking ourselves “how good could I be if I focused all my energy on one thing”
11:24 – stated goals vs. action, and the coaches role
12:24 – Cushy sport climbing
14:02 – How Charlie’s early strength training translated to climbing
15:49 – Cross pollinated athletes, the 75/25 rule, and being “strong enough”
18:24…
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Sep 22, 2020
BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief
Alex Bridgewater is a high-level rock climber who moved to Lander, WY in 2016, to train at Elemental as part of the Climb Strong Program. Alex now works for Climb Strong as a coach. We talked about his transition into coaching, managing a chronic back injury, favorite barbell and bodyweight exercises, speed walking, and the importance of self-belief.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bridgewater
Nuggets:
1:26 – Skating, early climbing, competing, and mentors
5:46 – Climbing in college and meeting Charlie’s brother Mike
7:27 – Alex’s first time swinging a kettlebell
8:26 – Plans for the ‘PreMuir’, and starting to train with Charlie
11:49 – Coming to Lander and learning about strength training
13:41 – Learning on the fly on the side of El Cap
16:21 – Getting sold on training, moving to Lander, and getting started with Climb Strong
22:15 – Discipline, second-tier routes, and volume…
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Sep 21, 2020
EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. _Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert. _
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team
Nuggets:
[Chrissy Vadovszki]
1:37 – Introduction
1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles
3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending
6:17 – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects
8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes
9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire
10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants…
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Sep 14, 2020
EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits
Steve Bechtel is a strength coach and the founder of Climb Strong. We talked about the gift of changing your mind, lessons from studying sprinting and how to apply them to climbing, developing aerobic capacity, why Jonathan Siegrist and BJ Tilden are such successful climbers, the “real secret” to success, creating better habits, and Logical Progression 2.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-bechtel
Nuggets:
2:25 – Steve’s house
3:38 – Kids, self-taught Parkour, and climbing at Orpierre