Dirty Water #34 - Featuring Ian 'Kanga' Cairns
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Derek and Chas speak with big wave surfer and the man many call the founder of professional surfing Ian 'Kanga' Cairns
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More episodes from Dirty Water: The BeachGrit Podcast featuring Chas Smith and Derek Rielly
Aug 9, 2022
Malibu realtor dubbed “Angriest Man in Surfing” details wild struggle as enforcer at world's most crowded wave, “People think I’m crazy but I’m trying to regulate a crowd of f$#king idiots!”
Today’s guest Andy Lyon is the Malibu realtor and First Point surfer of fifty years who achieved a considerable notoriety recently when he threw a rock into another man’s surfboard following an entanglement, the video of the event going viral.
He lost his job, had his address published and a beat down was suggested his four year old kid Glider.
Lyon represents a vanishing era where lineups were harshly policed with a clearly defined pecking order, a limpid simplicity greased with the underlying threat of violence.
The highlight, for me, of this interview is our guest’s reply to the posit that Malibu is a sissy wave for old men and girls, not sissy old men who beat up on girls.
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Aug 4, 2022
Peter Mel on fist fighting, his bombshell wave at Mavericks and the reckless flirtation with Methamphetamine that nearly put him behind bars, “When you’re at your lowest it feels nothing can help you!”
Mel, who is fifty-three, no longer has the foaming jaws of a meth addict. Today he is the sort of man who loves his children with a passion, his parents with respect, his wife with generosity and his friends with loyalty.
He wears slightly too big flannel shirts and pants with stone washing applied at the factory.
On January 8 last year, Pete rode a thirty-foot tube at Mavs.
“Everyone on earth should see this ride,” said Kelly Slater.
In this interview, Pete talks about how he stuck his lance into that monster thirty-foot wave at Maverick's neck, how he was lucky to avoid jail during his meth years and the mysterious beauty of BeachGrit's below-the-line commentators.
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Jul 16, 2022
Dirty Water with existentialist Julian Wilson, “I thought I watched Bruce Irons die in front of me, I thought I watched Nathan Fletcher die in front of me, I thought I was going to die!”
This episode of Dirty Water hits a high-water mark as Ben Mondy peels layers from "the best surfer in his generation never to win a world title" Julian Wilson.
Many revelations, including Julian's arrest as a teen, the day he stared death in the face, not just his own, but Bruce Irons', Nathan Fletcher's and Maya Gaberia's, how he was forced to become the family breadwinner at fifteen after his mama got hit with breast cancer and why he wanted to beat hell out of a fellow competitor.
Essential.
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